problems

Problems and Solutions

#1) I'm having electronic glitches, what can I do?
Some of the suggested fixes are:
a) Twist/braid wiring.
b) keep all wires neatly secured on opposite side of antenna.
c) wrap all wires in aluminum/tin foil and then wrap with electrical tape.
d) reposition so that RX, motor and ESC are separated.
d) put a ferrite ring on the ESC wire to the TX.
e) check if RX crystal is secure/solder into place.
f) upgrade TX, RX and servos.
g) (If all else fails) The belt can generate a charge - run a ground wire from boom to battery negative/ground wire.
h) The metal frame can also be grounded with a wire connecting it to the battery negative/ground wire.

#2) My tail boom is twisting out of alignment, how do I fix it?
One of the best suggestions is (while making sure boom is aligned) to drill a small hole through the center of the boom holder sleeve and into the boom. You then use a proper fitting screw that's less than 10mm long to secure the sleeve to the boom. The idea is to have the screw in the sleeve and boom vertically so that the belt goes around it.

#3) I need tiny parts!
www.walkera-parts.com/

#4) I need tiny tools!
Some of the suggested tools sold on the web are:
Wrench set for small nuts - Wiha Precision tools #26591.
Align hex wrenches 4 pc set model # HZ024T
Ball link pliers sold online at helihobby.com
Miniature phillips screwdriver set

#5) My stock brushed motor setup doesn't even get off the ground now!
Unless you are using a worn out or not fully charged battery, your motor is probably dying. Please see "Upgrades".

#6) Why is my 60 vibrating?
Things you can check:
a) main blade balance and weight
b) slowly tighten the blade holder (if blades flop over when heli tilted)1/8 of a turn at a time each equally, checking it for wobble after each adjustment.
c) paddle balance/level
d) track of both of the above
To check tracking spin the blades at a low RPM and watch the color bands on the blades. If one is lower than the other, you'll know which one to adjust based on what color band it has on it.
e) all screws fastened, bolts tightened etc.
f) shaft
you can eliminate whether it's the shaft or not by revving it up without main blades, if the problem is gone, it's the blade. If it's still there, you should remove main shaft and roll it on a flat surface to see if it's bent.

#7) Something came loose!
Yes, there are many tiny screws, nuts and bolts that hold the helicopter together and it's very important that you go over the entire helicopter regularly! Just as a real heli pilot would go over his machine, you too must check to be SURE all of the fasteners on your machine are tight. If a screw/nut should work it's way loose, it's proven it can and will do it again. To prevent this from happening, simply put a drop of blue loctite thread locker on it and replace.
www.loctiteproducts.com
The blue loctite locks it in place but allows for removal with tools.

Make sure the motor is tight. To set the pinion to the main gear. Put a little strip of paper between the main and pinion gear then push the motor/pinion gear in as tight as you can. Then while holding it tight, screw it down (blue loctite) then spin the main gear by hand to get the paper out.

And the connecting rod's balls , tighten them (the balls at the top too by the flybar and the ones on the servo) and make sure the connectors are pushed onto the center of the balls and not pushed on to far beyond the center of the balls.

The swashplate should have a bar that comes out the back and through the looped plastic bar behind the swashplate mounted on the frame. and look to make sure you have all the pieces on both sides of the head assembly. The two sides should be the same.

#8) How do I remove the main blade holders from the rotor head on the 60?
Unscrew the phillips head screws that hold the plastic blade holders together. Then use two allen wrenches to get the screws out of the Z-10 shaft. Then pull out the shaft and be carefull not to loose the parts. Notice the washer closest to the rubber rings is tapered. big side goes next to the rubber O rings.

#9) To remove main shaft.
To remove the main rotor shaft, you will have to remove the head assembly and the upper frame so you can pull out the main gear. After this, you pull out the pin that holds the autorotation sleeve. This will release the main shaft and you can replace it with a new one.

To remove the head assembly there is only one M2 screw located on the upper head piece. When you remove this you can just pop out the links from the swash and pull out the whole head.

Next is the upper frame. Remove the motor mount screws that hold the top frame and the tail holder assembly. To be able to slide out the gear you have to loosen the tail boom support and the tail boom holder and push it in so that the belt will be a little loose. Remove the main shaft collar with a 1.5 hex ( Allen wrench ) then pull out the gear.

#10 Why might my heli be rotating on it's own?
*Check wires going into tail servo. The screw that holds the servo in place, may be shorting the wires due to it being right where the wires go into the servo. To avoid this, make the wire hole in the servo casing larger (away from screw head).
1. Counter clockwise rotations -
a) belt might be slipping from too much slack.
b) pulley might be slipping from the pin.
c) GYRO gain might be set too low.

2. Clockwise Rotations -
a) Belt might be too tight causing drag.
b) Gyro mixing needs to be calibrated. ( v1 & v2 knobs ) plus Gyro dipswitch.
Adjust gyro until tail wag starts then simply lower the gyro gain until no wag is seen.

#11 I can't set the main blade pitch correctly
The pitch on the DF60 can go up to 11° but this will be very high if you are only doing hovering and normal flights. It is good to have around 8-9° pitch on the main blades. If you go over 12° you might stall the heli or bog down the motor and lose head speed. To overcome this you will be needing a powerful motor and larger capacity battery. 11°± is good for 3D flights for better controls when doing stunts... so if you'll be doing some normal flights its better to set it this way...
For the flybar.. its best to keep it level 0° to even out the drag on both fore and aft... better control in cyclic.

#12) I've upgraded to a new battery and it doesn't fit inside the frame.
Well you have three choices here.
a) You can strap it to the front of the frame at a downward angle, but this moves it from the center of gravity.
b) You can maintain a little more CG by strapping underneath the frame, but this makes it bottom-heavy.
c) You can do the "Frame Mod" to fit your new battery inside the frame.

#13) It gets c-c-c-cold where I live. How will my df60 fly?
The cold will make your heli seem like it lacks power. The colder the temperature is outside, the weaker your fully-charged battery will seem. The extreme cold slows down the chemical release of the energy stored inside the cells.
Battery packs should be protected from the direct cold.
First, keep the pack initially warm in a heated room or vehicle at your flying location.
You can set your heli up indoors or in a warm car before going outside.
When the battery is directly exposed to the cold, cover it with a thin piece of foam or similar. It's not recommended that you try to charge them in below freezing conditions and NEVER cover them in anything while charging.

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